Slave Lake Alberta Presents

2026

“CRASH FOR CASH”

Rules and Regulations

CAR CLASS

First and foremost, the fans pay good money to come and see crumpled cars, and

good competition. The rules we have created are designed to be simple and make the

show about who is a skilled driver, not about who has the best welding skill.

THESE RULES ARE THE ONLY THINGS YOU CAN DO TO YOUR CAR. THERE WILL BE

NO… WELL THE RULES DON’T SAY I CAN’T!!!

GENERAL:

• Spectators, officials and driver safety is our first concern! Keep this in mind when

building your cars.

• HEAD TECHS DECISION IS FINAL! Any arguing or profanity will NOT be tolerated.

• SANDBAGGING WILL NOT BE TOLERATED! One warning will be given and THAT’S

IT!

• Working brakes is a MUST. Test will be performed during tech inspection.

• NO WHITE CARS. Drivers DOOR ONLY MUST be WHITE. NO wraps or other

markings. Door will be numbered at tech after inspection. Roof sign or not, numbers

must be on BOTH sides of roof large enough to see and legible. This is for

announcers.

• Do NOT come to tech if your car is not ring ready. It wastes our time as well as yours.

Hood off/open for inspection. Bring hoods to inspection.

• Helmets, eye protection and coveralls are MANDATORY,

• Driver door hits are illegal, if it is determined the door hit is intentional, you will be

disqualified. If you use your door as protection – then that is on you, so hold on!

• ABUSE TO ANY OFFICIALS OF ANY KIND WILL NOT BE TOLERATED. PERIOD.

• Our facility is environmentally friendly, so we ask that NO antifreeze be used in

cooling systems.

• All cars, trucks and mini cars MUST be totally stripped and cleaned out. Vacuum out

any broken glass, remove all chrome trim, door handles, emblems, etc. There are

other events using our facility.• Due to the overwhelming interest of the Slave Lake Crash for Cash Demolition Derby,

we ask that you read the rules thoroughly, maybe twice, BEFORE you start phoning

contact numbers with questions.

• We want to keep our show as STOCK AS POSSIBLE when building your cars. Rules

have been modified with some repairing of rusty frames as we know how hard it is

to find good solid cars anymore.

• Open to any make or model EXCEPT: NO CONVERTIBLES, T-TOPS, AMBULANCES,

HERSES, EL-CAMINOS, RANCHEROS, LIMOS, 1973 AND OLDER CHRYSLER

IMPERIALS OR IMPERIAL SUB FRAMES, PRE 1970’S UNIBODY LINCOLNS.

STRIPPING OF YOUR CAR:

• All interior, except the driver seat and seat belt, MUST be stripped out.

• ALL glass, lights, lenses, mirrors, door handles, trim and hardware, hub caps MUST

BE REMOVED

• Fuel tank MUST BE REMOVED.

• Tow hitches and hardware MUST BE REMOVED

• Car must be cleaned of all loose debris, including glass in interior as well as the

trunk area.

FRAME:

• NO welding other than what is stated, NO reinforcing of frame.

• NO cold bending or tilting. Notching IS permitted

• Rusted out frames may be patched by welding rusted area with fresh steel up to

1/8” thick ONLY. Repair patches may extend 1” beyond rust. Patches MUST be

painted a high visibility color. Pictures of rusted areas can also be beneficial to you in

case of tech discrepancies. A ½" hole must be drilled in patch to check thickness.

• When repairing rotted and rusty frames you MUST leave original frame structure in

place, repair rust holes ONLY. No building of complete frame rails will be accepted.

NO creasing of replacement steel to make stronger. ONLY 2 pieces of repair steel

allowed per side and may NOT be welded together. If your frame is so rotted out that

it needs a complete replacement, then you may want to build a completely different

car.

• We are working to be fair to ALL. Over repairing will NOT be accepted. Once again,

pictures will be beneficial.DOORS AND REINFORCEMENTS:

• Exterior door bars ONLY, NO internal cages. DRIVER DOOR MUST BE PADDED.

• BOTH driver and passenger doors MUST BE REINFORCED with either channel

iron/beam/box steel. 8” x ¼” is MINIMUM, 12” x ½” is MAXIMUM, 76” MAX Length.

NO round pipe or grader blades on any exterior.

• All door bar ends must be bevelled and must be bolted through entire door or post,

NOT just to door skin

• Front dash bar and rear cross bar are MANDATORY. MAX size is 6” OD and must be

bolted through door bars. Rear cross bar must be no more then 8” from seat. NO

gussets from door bar to cross bar allowed, but gusset for cross bar end plates

accepted. NO interior bars connecting the cross bars. This includes cable shifter

bars

• Exterior door bars can not extend more then 8” MAX past front door seam and must

be attached to the inner cross bars.

• Floor to roof bars are MANDATORY, but CANNOT attach to frame OR body mounts,

you may run 2 of these bars, bottom plate not to exceed 6”x10” Halos are acceptable

but you cannot use both. Meaning halos and floor to roof bars at the same time

• Hardtop cars must run extra bar from roof to door bar to act as door post. 3” or 4”

channel iron is recommended. Bolted or welded.

• Halo bars must be mounted vertically. Halo may be bolted to the floor using 4”x 6”

plate if needed. But CANNOT attach to the frame or body mounts in any way. Halo

may NOT contact or attach to window bars. Halo can not connect to tank protector.

Halo can be connected to top of cross bar plate if not resting on floor.

• Fuel tank protectors are allowed and may be attached to the rear cross bar only. A

minimum of 4” off the floor, and minimum 4” from the rear of back seat panel, MAX

width of 40” OD. Tank protectors can only attach to rear cross bar nothing else.

• ALL DOORS MUST be securely fastened shut by means of bolts, chains, clamps, or all

three.

• Station wagon tailgates may be bolted and chained shut ONLY

ENGINE:

• Any engine may be used in any car but MUST stay in engine compartment. Engines

can be moved back no more than 3” from original location. Engines can be raised

1”and MUST remain ahead of firewall. NO engine cradles or pulley protectors

• Firewalls may be pounded back or holes cut for clearances. Large holes must be

covered with a non flammable material. Floor mats are acceptable• Headers or exhaust manifold is MANDATORY

• Mounting of engine must not strengthen the car in any way – you may chain engine

into place, ONE chain PER side. Welding of plate to fit engine mount is acceptable,

but NO reinforcing of frame in any way. If you use plate to mount motor it can NOT

attach to frame rail at all. Only the engine saddle to motor mount.

• You MUST run air cleaner

• NO starting fluids allowed

• NO distributor protectors

TRANSMISSION:

• You may use any type of mount

• If you are not using factory cross member, you may use 2” x 2” square tubing bolted

to the frame. NOT welded. You can use 2” x 5” flat bar welded to cross member, each

side, to run 4 bolts max. When modifying mopar cross members for clearance you

can cut and weld 1” on 1” off using only the material that came from the cross

member itself.

• Any type of cooler is acceptable but must be securely fastened inside car, CANNOT

BE ATTACHED ANY FRAME. NO transmission protectors or braces. Minimum 2/3rds

of transmission must be covered

• ¾” hose attached to fill tube is recommended, but not enforced.

• Metal or braided lines is a MUST. NO fuel line or low-pressure rubber hose allowed.

Any type of shifter may be used, but must NOT strengthen the car in any way – NO

skid plates!

• Any type of driveshaft is acceptable, this includes sliders.

REAR DIFFERENTIAL:

• NO 14 bolt diffs allowed. 10 or 12 bolt passenger car diffs ONLY.

• Diff swaps are allowed, but must use stock mounting brackets, cut off original diff

and rewelded to replacement diff. ZERO external bracing added to diff

• All car diffs are MAX 5 bolt axles ONLY

• NO homemade trailing arms, originals may be cut and shortened. If cut you may

weld these back together with NO added material.REAR SUSPENSION:

• Coil cars can NOT BE CONVERTED TO LEAF SPRING AND VICE VERSA.

• 9 leaf MAX. MUST have 1” stagger. 3/8” MAX thickness and 2 ½” MAX width

• No extended shackles

• No chaining diff to humps or body

• NO WELDING OF SPRING PACKS, you may have 4 leaf clamps per side MAX – coil

springs may be bolted/welded/tied to differential

• Coils may be doubled and clamped, chained or wired together. NOT WELDED. Outer

coil may be welded to coil mounting bracket

• Stock shocks ONLY

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING:

• Because most 50 year old cars have sacked suspension, you may use two chains per

side on upper A arms to achieve bumper height. May be bolted ONLY thru A-arm and

outer most side of frame. NO wrapping chain around frame

• Stock steering columns only. You may weld in 2 steering joints between firewall and

steering box

• All steering and suspension - control arms, spindles, springs, steering linkages, ball

joints, tie rods, etc. MUST be stock to that generation of car, original steering parts

only. Nothing aftermarket

BUMPERS:

• Bumper swaps are allowed, but must remain factory, no homemade bumpers. The

bumper you start the show with must remain for the events duration, meaning it

can’t be swapped between heats

• You are allowed to trim and flip bumper if you choose

• Bumpers may be chained with ONE loop of 3/8” chain to hood, core support, trunk

lid or tailgate panel

• You may pinch and weld the outer skin to the back internal structure of the bumper.

Ends and holes can NOT be capped or filled. MUST be able to verify that bumper is

NOT stuffed or reinforced in anyway.

• Outer skin of bumper when pinching and welding, 4” weld then 4” space, NO full

welding

• You may weld bumper to bracket, and bracket to frame. 2”x4” plate is allowed to

weld bumper to frame, but must remain ahead of core support, 2 per side only, orone per side using 2” angle iron that is 4” in length with one flat side to frame and

other flat side to bumper. One or two clean passes all the way around, of weld, to

connect bumper to frame. Height to bottom of bumper not to exceed 20”

RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT:

• Radiators must be stock or of stock equivalent. Aluminum rads are allowed, but all

rads MUST remain in STOCK location.

• Any type of cooling fan is allowed. If using a belt driven fan, the hood opening must

cover up to 2” minimum behind fan blades towards water pump

• Rad support spacers are allowed. 3” MAX OD, with a 6” MAX length. May be welded

to frame OR core support. NOT both. Must be mounted vertically, and used only as a

vertical spacer. Do NOT use them to strengthen any aspect of the car.

• No supplemental cooling devices allowed. NO ANTIFREEZE. Flush system and use

WATER only. This will be checked, we are environmentally friendly.

• Absolutely NO welding on the core support will be tolerated, except if you choose to

weld spacers to the core support. You may cut your core support to allow for your

choice of bumper mounting, however nothing may be added back. No attaching redi

rod to core support. Bolt replacement of equivalent size permitted

BRAKES:

• Any type of braking system will be allowed, but your car MUST have working brakes.

NO EXCEPTIONS. If using pinion brake, the mounting can be ONLY to the center

section and NOT the axle tubes. It must NOT strengthen in anyway. If using axle

tubes you can only clamp the bracket, no welding. Excessive brackets will be told to

remove material

• If using floor mounted pedals they can only bolt to the floor pan skins, they must not

strengthen build in anyway.

BATTERIES:

• MAX of TWO batteries allowed

• Must be securely fastened beside driver, in secure battery box. NO plastic milk crates

or wooden boxes. Suggested to build a metal tray, securely BOLTED to the car body,

NOT frame or sub. MUST be covered with rubber mat.

HOOD AND TRUNK:

• Hoods are MANDATORY. MUST have hole cut in the hood for fire extinguishing• MUST be bolted, chained or fastened in a MINIMUM of 4, but MAX of 7 places. This

includes pins through front and any rear trunk body mounts. You can bolt hood skin

to hood, with a MAX of 20 – 3/8” bolts.

• MAX washer size is 6” x 6” plate on thru pins only, inside trunk included, tire jack

bases acceptable, bottom washer is 3”x3”x3/8ths max. Any other hood/trunk hold

downs may use 4”x4” max. Chain may be used to hold trunk. MAX of 7 points

• MAX Redi rod size is 1–¼”

• Y frame cars can use a 4”x4” washer on top and bottom of the Y directly behind rad

support to run all thread thru the Y. No welding.

• You may crease trunk lid, you may dish the trunk lid as per rules, FULL CANOEING is

NOT allowed. If dishing, center of speaker deck must remain within 6” of original

location

• Centre of trunk lid must be 10” or more from topside of frame, unibody or subframe

vehicles from topside of trunk floor. Quarter panels and light panels must remain

vertical

• The 7th point for hold down is for the chain loop for bumpers only where chain

passes through. If you choose that route

FUEL SYSTEM:

• NO plastic fuel tanks – this is for YOUR safety.

• 7.5 gallon fuel capacity MAX

• Original fuel tanks MUST BE REMOVED.

• Tank MUST BE securely mounted in rear compartment of car, towards the center

• Any type of gas pedal is allowed

• Any type of fuel pump is allowed. If running an electric fuel pump, you must have a

clearly marked “SHUT OFF” switch

• ALL fuel lines passing through any panels MUST BE PROTECTED, This is for YOUR

safety.

TIRES AND WHEELS:

• You may run any type of AIR-FILLED tire, 14 ply MAX. 10 ply or less may run

flappers. If tire ply rating is rubbed off and non readable, no flappers allowed

• 8” weld in wheel centers allowed max 3/8ths thick.

• MAX rim size is 16”• You may weld on a valve stem protector to rim

• NO studded tires, solid tires, foam filler, or stuffed with rags. Air filled only.

• REMOVE ALL WHEEL WEIGHTS

BODY:

• Full frame cars may replace up to 6 body mount bolts with ½” max bolt size, your

choice which ones. However... these guidelines MUST be followed: thru top of frame

only, max washer size is one hockey puck or enough 2.5” washers to maintain a

minimum ½" space between body and frame, or a 2x2 piece of square tubing. Top

inside washer can be no bigger than 4”x4”. Wagons may replace the TWO MOST

REAR mounts only, the other 4 replacements must remain midway past rear doors

towards the front. Metric GMs are encouraged to replace mid rail mounts on each

side.

• Wheel wells may be trimmed. Up to 8 – 3/8ths bolts may be used to bolt quarter

panels together. Max washer size is 2”

• Any creasing of the body is allowed within rule specs. NO FRONT CLIP SWAPS.

Original body must be used for duration of event

• 2 vertical window bars are allowed, must be bolted and you can have 2 horizontal

bars across those. Bars going from roof to topside of firewall.

• 2 rear window bars are allowed, roof to speaker deck, or roof to window seam only.

Window bars must be bolted. Can NOT attach to trunk lid

• Uni-body and sub frame vehicles may have 1 extra bolt through frame structure, on

each side, max 1/2” bolt, between firewall and end of frame, inside car with 4”x4”

washer, BUT...then NO bolts completely thru unirails. You may only bolt or chain

trunk lid to inner lip if you choose this method or thru center of trunk pan only

• Full frame sedans may have only 4 bolts through frame, 2 at core support and 2

through trunk at the body mount, in these spots only can body be touching frame.

Bottom frame washer size is 3”x3” max

• Station wagons may only have 2 bolts through frame at core support, and two

replacement bolts at farthest rear locations as per body mount replacement

guidelines• Repair plates after heats

• Plates if you need will be supplied for frame repairing after heats by tech crew.

Plates will be sold at $5 per plate, maximum of 4 plates per entry welded flat

against frame, NO tacoing or teeing of plates. You may cut each plate once and only

once.

MAIN TECH IS FRIDAY 8AM-9PM. RE-TECH SATURDAY 8AM-NOON SHARP .

Tech ends at NOON sharp whether you’re in line for the ramp or not.

FINAL WORDS:

• Remember, if it is NOT in the rules, then it is NOT allowed. We are not a derby that

pushes the grey areas of the builds. Build to the rules and enjoy all of what will be

offered to the drivers for prizes and rewards.

• Best of luck to every and all drivers.

• If you have questions after reading the rules multiple times, please call/text, leave a

message if no answer, and someone WILL get back to you.

Contacts:

Jim Johnston Ph # 780-887-7901, phone after 7pm, text anytime.

Mark Smith Ph # 306-480-2555, phone after 7pm, text anytime.

“Good luck to all participants.”

Let’s have a smashing good time at the Annual Slave Lake Alberta

Crash for Cash Demolition Derby

1.2026 DRIVER REGISTRATION

2.Event Policies

2026 **DRIVER REGISTRATION** CRASH FOR CASH DEMOLITION DERBY

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2026 DRIVER REGISTRATION CRASH FOR CASH DEMOLITION DERBY